Welcome Aboard! Train left Union Station in Portland at 4:40PM on Thursday afternoon
Just a few generations ago, the route of the Empire Builder was wilderness, roamed by Indians and buffalo. Later, it was visited by fur traders and gold miners. And still later, it was developed by merchants, timber men, farmers and -- most dramatically -- by railroads.
Cozy Sleeper with plenty of room to relax; bunk beds made up with fresh linen in the evening
The greatest railroader of all was James J. Hill, a freewheeling, big-dealing tycoon who linked St. Paul and Seattle with his Great Northern Railway. He acquired the land, built the tracks and even encouraged home-steading along the route. In the process, "Empire Builder" Hill came to govern the fate and fortunes of a good part of this powerfully beautiful area.
Today, Amtrak's Empire Builder follows the Soo Line between Chicago and St. Paul. Then it travels the Burlington Northern route to Spokane, where the train splits, with one section going westward to Seattle and the other section going south-westward along the old Spokane, Portland and Seattle Railroad to Portland for direct connections to California.
This isn't a luxurious way to travel, but our first evening was quite an adventure to say the least. We had about 90 minutes of daylight on Thursday evening....enough time to get settled in our room then have a cocktail in the lounge car.
Sink and medicine cabinet by compartment door with shower and
toilet separate
Since we didn't pick up our dining car until Spokane, Thursday's meal (the best of the entire trip) was a gourmet boxed dinner.
PORTLAND: The Chinook Indians were the first to use the site of Portland as a port. It is said that homesick New England settlers flipped a coin to choose between Portland (as in Maine) and Boston (as in Massachusettes) for the name of their new city. Today, Portland, Oregon, calls itself the "City of Roses". In the heart of the Columbia River basin, Portland was the largest city in the Pacific Northwest when it incorporated in 1851.
Columbia River Draw Bridge: Leaving Portland, the train crosses the Willamette River, then a 1,516 ft. bridge over the Oregon Slough (a second channel of the Columbia River) to reach Hayden Island. From the island, the train crosses over this 2,806 ft. structure to enter Washington.
Best meal of the trip; boxed dinner upon leaving Portland (we don't pick up dining car until Spokane)
VANCOUVER: Named for Captain George Vancouver, shipmate of Captain Cook and commander of the British expedition to chart the Northwest. Prune orchards and prune dryers are on both sides of the tracks. To the north is Mt. St. Helens, nearly 10,000 ft. high, a volcano that was inactive until 1980.
Bridge of the Gods: This bridge replaced a natural rock bridge, which the Indians say was destroyed by their deity in anger when his two sons argued over a young maiden. The two sons became Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams. The maiden became Mt. St. Helens.
Cooks: In minutes, you've traveled between rain forest and desert. And here, as the railroad skirts the base of 2,500 ft. high, cone-shaped Wind Mountain, you can see on the cliffs to the north, one of the last lumber flumes (or chutes) in operation in North America. This flume carried rough-cut lumber from above the rim of the Columbia Gorge to a finishing mill located along the river bank.
Darkens desends @ BINGEN-WHITE SALMON, the two adjacent towns were named by immigrants after Bingen, a beautiful town along the Rhine in Germany and the White Salmon River. This is the center of extensive fruit orchards. Across the water is the city of Hood River, Oregon.
Dalles Dam: Dalles is the French word for "tough," and this area was so named because of the narrow and dangerous channel. The 8,700 ft dam, which the Empire Builder follows for the next few minutes. created Horsethief Lake used for fishing and recreation. The dam provides the area with irrigation water, hydroelectric power and a reservoir for water sports.
Just before Pasco, we bed down for the night. Brian in top bunk and me on the bottom bunk. I thought the train would "rock" us both gently to sleep, but neither one of us got more than a few hours of broken sleep between Pasco and dawn (Whitefish, MT)
PASCO, WA: Here in Pasco, Englishman David Thompson claimed the western lands for Great Britain with a simple message tied to a pole. England's claim didn't hold, and the United States finally took over the disputed territory in 1846. The town's name is said to be an abbreviated version of "Pacific Steamship Company." It is the farthest point up the Columbia River that can be reached by seagoing ships.
We reached SPOKANE, WA after midnight: Spokane calls itself "Monarch of the Inland Empire" and lies in the midst of country rich in productive farmlands, lumber and mining. Railroading was responsible for much of the city's early growth. Here the Empire Builder route (the Great Northern route from Seattle) is joined by the Portland route at Spokane. During the night, the train stops at
SANDPOINT and
LIBBY.
Flathead Tunnel The 7-mile long Flathead Tunnel, 42 miles west of Whitefish, is the second longest in the Western Hemisphere.
As we sleep, the train lumbers through Western Montana. At first light, we enter Glacier National Park
Enjoy!
Stacy
How is November treating you?
Welcome Monday! A busy week at Rebecca Lane. Brian is teaching in Portland this week and my Pop is coming up from Springfield for a visit....a full house for dinner Monday through Wednesday. Pop is cooking one night and the rest is on me!
I wish that we'd had more time to check out Chicago. I'll have to come back again.
First stop...observation deck at the John Hancock Tower (one block east of our hotel). Beautiful view of the Chicago area and it was a sunny day and near 60.
We then walked two blocks west of our hotel and found Jake Melnick's Corner Tap.
This is a great neighborhood joint with a great atmosphere.
Enjoy!
COLUMBUS, WI: Mounted in the steeple of the Zion Evangelical Lutheran Church, on the right, is a bell cast from pieces of French cannon acquired in the Franco-Prussian War. The bell was a gift from the Emperor of Germany. We cross the Crawfish River.
I got out a stretched my legs in Wilwaukee. My first time ever on Wisconsin soil!
The tapering Hancock Building comes into view, and the Sears Tower – both dominate the skyline to the south. You can see Marina City's north cylindrical towers and the Merchandise Mart rise above the river on the left as we pull into Union Station.
HAVRE, MT: An impressive, well-preserved Great Northern S-2 steam locomotive is on display at the station. This was a service stop, so we had time to walk around a bit before lunch. Indians once drove buffalo off the town's steep cliffs. Today, the cliffs provide a peaceful overlook. We follow the Milk River from Havre to Glasgow.
Bear Paw Mountains: in 1877, after a 1,700 mile retreat, Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce Indians, recognizing the hopelessness of his position, surrendered to the U.S. Army in the Bear Paw Mountains. Said Chief Joseph, "From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever."
GLASGOW, MT: The large "G" on the hillside on the left stands for "Glasgow", the center of an area rich in dinosaur bones. The Ft. Peck Museum displays various fossils found in the region.
I think I enjoyed this stretch the most. We returned to our room and Brian napped while I looked out the window and listened to my MP3 player. As far as the eye could see were amber waves.....the nations heartland.
Brian's 44th state, North Dakota; As darkness decends, we cross into North Dakota. 
toilet separate
Welcome Monday! I am wrapping up my annual meeting in Chicago today and tomorrow, but will fly home Monday evening. A short week ahead, but planning this menu in advance was a big help!
Enjoy!
This has become quite a tradition for us....a trip up north to Snohomish to a wonderful pumpkin patch and to explore the quaint little town with friends.
The final creation!
Enjoy!
